Surron LBX electric dirt bikes are known to be small, yet powerful machines. To get the best from your handlebars, set up your Surron so the ergos perfectly match your body and riding style.
This is where it gets challenging. What is the best Surron handlebar? This is a very personal question. Height has something to do with it, but so does torso height. How about your shoulder width? Do you want to feel every little bump through your front-end suspension, or would you rather have a smoother ride? Do you like riding on sand or hard surfaces?
It all comes down to your preference. First, let’s break down all the handlebar lingo and what it means when it comes to comfort. If you want to get straight to our personal preferences, skip the next part and start from here.
And remember, the best Surron handlebar will be the one that matches your body and riding style. It may not necessarily be the one listed below, or what your mate runs. This list is designed to give you a good starting point and improve your understanding of the different types of handlebars.
When it comes time to make a purchase, check out our LBX handlebar selection right here on GritShift to support our R&D endeavors as well as free journalism like this article.
Handlebar terminology:
To start understanding all the differences in handlebars, here is a list of the most commonly used terminology.
If you would rather watch a video that explains this, I found this great YouTube video that goes into lots of detail on a handlebar!
Clamp
This is the part that attaches your handlebar to your e-moto. When selecting a new handlebar, make sure you get the correct size clamp section to match the mount. Or, now is the time to upgrade both your handlebar and stem riser so the clamp section matches.
A stem riser is one of the first upgrades many riders do. It will make your e-moto much stronger and stop any potential unwanted twist through the bars. I’ll discuss a stem riser in more detail shortly.
The usual sizes are 31.8mm (Surron OEM), 36mm Fatbar, and 28.6mm (1 ⅛”) MX bars.
Fatbar
Made by Renthal, a Fatbar handlebar is wider in the clamping area, then it tapers down to a standard size to fit standard-size grips and controls. It is designed to be strong but still provides some flex.
Twinwall
Also known as crossbar handlebars, depending on the brand. This describes the second top bar that gives additional strength to the handlebar. It strengthens the handlebar, which means you’ll feel more of the bumps and chatter through the suspension as the handlebar doesn’t have much flex.
Sweep
Sweep is the distance from a side-on view of the handlebar from the clamp point to the tip. You can adjust this distance by rotating the handlebar in the clamp prior to tightening.
Rise
This is a particularly important number to look at in the world of e-moto, due to e-motos being much smaller than standard dirt bikes. Many riders choose to select a 3” rise to have a more upright riding position on mid-sized e-moto. The rise is the part from the clamp to the first bend in the handlebar.
Width
Width refers to the overall length of the handlebar. Many bands of handlebars have allowances for you to cut the handlebars down to the size you’re after, to tailor the bar to you.
Height
Height is the overall height of the bar, from the clamp to the tip of the handlebar. You can adjust this by rotating the handlebar in the clamp prior to tightening.
What are the best Surron handlebars?
This list is curated from the top best-selling bars here at GritShift, and from what we personally run. I’ve been riding dirtbikes for the last 20ish years, and have seen a fair amount of bent bars (many of which I may have done…), and the biggest thing I’ve learned is to always buy from a reputable brand.
The best in the business test the strength and durability of their handlebars, and these are the brands we sell at GritShift. Be very careful if you do look at buying from an online marketplace, as you don’t know the quality of the metal. What can happen is that the metal can become weak and snap, or bend in a way that is dangerous while riding.
We test everything we sell here at GritShift. If we manage to break something easily without going out of our way to break it on purpose, we don’t sell it. That simple approach means you can trust the parts you buy from our store. Check out our handlebar selection here.
Top Handlebars
In no particular order, these handlebars are our top favorites for electric dirt bikes:
Renthal R-Works Fatbar36 Handlebars (36mm Clamp)
- Clamp: 36mm
- Flex: Some flex
- Price: More expensive than other handlebars, the highest quality handlebar
This handlebar has a unique flex to it – just enough to feel the suspension working, but not enough to be annoying. I personally run these bars on my MX bikes, as do many of us here at GritShift.
While they are more expensive than other handlebars, I think they’re worth it. This handlebar is super strong, but it is also much lighter – 36% lighter, which makes a big difference in e-moto when any increase in weight is noticeable.
A 36mm clamp is required to run this handlebar on your e-moto.
Warp 9 3″ Rise Handlebars (31.8mm Clamp)
- Clamp: 31.8mm
- Flex: Some flex
- Price: Great value
The rise in the Warp 9 3” handlebar is just the right amount for most riders when upgrading your Surron handlebars. It brings your riding position into a more upright feel, raising your hands up by 3”. These handlebars are 770mm wide and come in some great colors.
You can pair these handlebars with a Direct Mount Stem Riser – which will give you an extra 2” of rise. They will also fit directly on a stock Surron LBX.
ProTaper A76 Aluminum Handlebar 3 Inch Rise 31.8mm Clamp
- Clamp: 31.8mm
- Flex: Some flex
- Price: Great value, slightly more expensive than the Warp 9 handlebars
The ProTaper A76 Handlebar gives you a 3” rise, much like the Warp9 3” rise. ProTaper also makes the A50 Handlebar, giving a 2” rise but keeping a similar design.
Both of these bars are 810mm wide, but you can cut them down to 740mm to adjust to your liking. There are markings on each side of the handlebars to make this a relatively simple task.
This handlebar fits the OEM Surron LBX mounts, and also the Direct Mount Stem Riser.
Best Emoto Stem Riser
There are many options for stem risers for your electric dirt bike. Here are a few options from the GritShift range. If you’re wondering why you need to get yourself a stem riser, check out this article
GritShift Direct Mount Stem Riser for 31.8mm bars
This is the best-selling stem riser here at GritShift. Fitting most stock Surron, Talaria and Segway e-motos, this stem riser is an easy install and a great upgrade from stock.
It is strong and light, and gives a good clamping area that minimizes any twist that you can get when riding off-road with the stock clamps. It increases the rise of your handlebars by 2” and also moves them forward slightly to give you extra room to move.
Heavy Hitter MX Direct Mount Riser Fat Bar 1 ⅛” Clamp
This Stem Riser gives you a nice 1.75” rise with a wide clamping area for extra stiffness and is super strong. The benefits of this mount are not just increased height, but it also allows you to mount an MX handlebar directly to your e-moto.
The MX handlebar range is much larger than the 31.8mm bars. This gives you the option of replacing your handlebars from any MX dealer. If you’re from an MX background, this will also give you that familiar feeling and put your body in a closer position to what you’re used to.
Heavy Hitter Titanium Direct Mount Riser
Designed for 31.8mm handlebars, this Direct Mount Riser has a 2” rise, wide clamping area, and can be mounted directly to most stock or aftermarket forks.
Made from Titanium, it is really strong, yet really lightweight. Sure, it’s a bit more expensive, but we’re sure it’s the best-quality stem riser on the market.
If you’ve followed us on Instagram, you’ll know most of us at GritShift love to take our e-motos to the extreme and enter races. These stem risers have been our personal choice during the toughest tracks, like at The Red Bull Tennessee Knockout Enduro.
How to replace your handlebars
Here is a guide to replacing your handlebars. If you’ve already made any aftermarket changes, these instructions will be slightly different, however, it will give you a good idea of what to expect when changing your handlebars.
NOTE: If you have bent your handlebars or have had a big impact crash, please don’t try to re-straighten them, as tempting as it may be. Just buy a new bar. If you’ve done any work with metals before, you’ll know that that will cause weakness in the bar. This creates a dangerous situation when you’re out riding.
If you would rather watch a video, this is a great one to view on how to change your handlebars:
Tools needed: 4mm Allen key, Phillips head screwdriver
- Remove the throttle, brake lever, and display mounts.
- Remove the headset bolts and slide off the throttle.
- If needed, remove the old grip to reuse (I would recommend buying a new one!)
- If needed, remove the stem mount and replace it with a direct stem riser (follow the instructions given to you with the stem riser, or view them here, then continue with the next steps
- Slide the throttle back onto the next handlebar
- Place the handlebar in the mounting point and hand-tighten bolts, but don’t tighten to spec yet.
- If you’re going to cut your handlebars (on the brands that allow this) measure up the correct position here, mark where you need to cut the bars, take your handlebar off, cut it to size, and then continue with these instructions.
- Replace the brake lever and display mounts, but don’t tighten them fully yet.
- Put the grips on.
- Check the position of the handlebars. Sit on your bike and move the handlebars to the correct position.
- Check the position of the throttle and levers, and move to the correct position.
- Tighten all bolts.
- Test ride and recheck all bolts for correct tightness.
TIP: When replacing your handlebars, consider getting new grips. They are not expensive and will save you a heap of frustration from trying to get the old grips off without damaging them. Read all about grips here. Or ask a mate to help… and enjoy the show! 🙂
Best Surron Handlebars
The best handlebar is the one that fits you the best. If you’re still not sure what to upgrade your handlebar to, see if you can jump on a friend’s e-moto if they have a different handlebar bend – it might give you some ideas. Otherwise, sit or stand on your own e-moto and think about what would make your riding position more comfortable. Hands slightly higher, further away from you, outwards, inwards?
Some riders prefer to have their bars better for a standing position, others prefer sitting – it depends on how you usually ride.
Don’t forget to take note of what size clamp you’ll need. If the handlebar doesn’t fit the OEM mount, you’ll need to pick up the correct mount. It could also be the time you upgrade to a direct stem mount, which is way stronger overall. Have a think about purchasing new grips also – taking old grips off your handlebars is a pain, and much easier to start with a fresh set.
Check out our range here at GritShift, and like always, feel free to contact us with any questions. We have used everything we sell, so buy with confidence that you’re getting the same parts we’ve run on our street bikes and competition bikes alike.
Random Facts So You Look Cool With Your Mates
What was the first-ever handlebar like?
Handlebars have appeared in various forms since the earliest time of bicycles. The very first handlebars were made of straight solid steel or wood, unlike today’s handlebars made from tubular metal.
The shape changed to the curved or drop handlebars in the 1920’s. Since then, many variations have been invented specific to different riding styles. E-moto mainly use flat bars and riser bars.
Wooden bicycles?
Did you know the first bicycle was made from wood? Apparently, German Inventor Karl von Drais designed and made the first bicycle in 1817. It didn’t have pedals. And yes, after numerous accidents, many States passed laws that prohibited these bicycles from public places.
Steel bicycles?
In the late 1800s, the ‘safety’ bicycle was developed, using steel tubing. The downside was the weight. Some of these bicycles were reported to be over 80 lbs!
Luckily, technological advancements have allowed bicycles to be much, much lighter thanks to materials such as carbon fiber and aluminum.
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