Without tires, your e-moto isn’t a bike. Without good tires, your e-moto sucks. Pretty simple. But what makes a ‘good tire’, when do you need to change it, and what if you’ve never changed a motorcycle tire before?
When I got my very first dirt bike many years ago, I was sooo excited, I took it to the first patch of dirt I could find and had a ball. But, I didn’t have a clue what a dirt bike should feel like, what was good or not, I didn’t even check what pressures were in it. Nope, I went straight from the motorcycle shop to the dirt. Brand new toy! I’m sure I’m not the only one!
As some say, ignorance can be bliss, I remember having the best day. After a short time, and watching others take to single-line sandy tracks with ease, I started wondering why I was struggling so much. Yes, I was brand new to the concept of dirt bike riding, but I had accumulated countless hours on all sorts of bicycles. For some reason, I didn’t stop to think about my tires (or anything else on the bike!) Seems so stupid now, but I truly got wrapped up in the concept of dirtbike I forgot all the basics!
I checked the pressures, and let a heap of air out. Instant success!! I had grip!! But now I had entered the vortex of improving and modding. Not fully satisfied with the outcome, I quickly upgraded those tires. What a difference it made. From then onwards, I always ensure I have a good set of boots on my bikes, and at the right pressure!
Before we dive into the nitty-gritty of this article, let’s just recap some of the basics, so you don’t do what I did, and if you didn’t – share this article with a mate who has! If you want to read a full in-depth article about tires, check out this one, otherwise, grab a cuppa and let’s get started.
101: Tire Terminology
Tire terminology can feel like a new language when you’re new to it, so here is a rundown of the need-to-know words:
- Tread: The bit that contacts the road surface. Your car tire will likely be relatively smooth, which is useful for dry, hard surfaces. Your dirtbike will likely have chunky tread, useful for gripping dirt
- Bead: The part of the tire that contacts the rim along the outsides
- Rim: The round metal part on which the tire is placed
- Sidewall: The part between the bead and the tread. You’ll find lots of useful manufacturing info here
- Tire width: The width of the tire in millimeters
- Rim diameter: The diameter of the rim measured in inches, it will let you know what size tire matches the rim
- Directional tire: Some tires only have one direction of rotation due to how the tread is placed. This is important to note when replacing the tire
I’ve got the stock tires on my LBX. Do I need to change them?
If you’ve read my previous articles, you’ll have heard me say ‘Ride your e-moto first, before changing anything’. You need to get a basic understanding of the parts you want to upgrade, so you can make fine tune adjustments later.
Tire choice depends on the terrain you’re riding on. If you’re riding on the road, commuting in mostly dry conditions, then the stock tires will be perfectly adequate. The moment you take your Surron off-road is when you’ll need to start seriously thinking about new tires. Here comes the tricky part. Different tires are made for different surfaces. Here are a few examples:
It might not be immediately obvious, but the Dunlop MX12 (on the right) is made for sand and mud, as you can see by the tread – it is widely spaced to allow the tire to grip and displace the sand, and propels your e-moto forward.
By contrast, the tire on the left, the Dunlop MX33, has a different style of tread, which is great for soft dirt or MX tracks.
Think about where you’ll likely be riding the most, then choose a tire that suits those conditions. There are also tires that are a good compromise for a few different surfaces. Read the descriptions of the tires to see if they will be a good fit for you and your Surron.
When do I need to change my Surron’s tires?
There is a simple reason: it’s flat! But, there could be more to the story.
If you’re new to e-motos, and motorcycling in general, you may not realize an inner tube is inside the tire carcass. You may only need to replace the tube, and the tire may still be OK if it is relatively new and damage-free. Either way, you’ll be needing to take the tire off your bike to either replace the tube, or replace the tube and tire.
Other reasons to change your tire/tube/both:
- Not holding the correct pressure (slow leak)
- Puncture or sidewall damage
- The tread is worn
- The tire has been left in the sun and has become brittle
- The tire is over 10 years old
- There is a flat spot on the tread, perhaps from uneven wear
- The rim is damaged (may need to replace the rim in this case)
- Changing your riding style, i.e. street, sand, dirt, etc…
TIP: It is a really good idea to change both front and rear tires together. If one has brand new grippy tread, and the other has tread that has worn, and is not as grippy, your e-moto will be very unstable and unpredictable handling could result.
TIP #2: Replace your tube every time you replace your tire. They are relatively inexpensive, and even though they might not have signs of leaks etc, the rubber can get brittle and stop holding air.
Tire upgrade: What’s the right call?
What do you replace your current tires with? The biggest consideration should be: does the new tire fit – including when at low pressures for soft, sand riding? Don’t forget to measure the width from the widest part of the tread – some aggressive tread patterns might not fit between the forks or swingarm.
It also helps to get the matching set – both front and rear for the same terrain. Just saying 🙂 If you’re not sure, check with the guys at GritShift and let them know what mods you’ve done to your Surron, to make sure the new tire will fit before purchasing it.
Replace or patch your Surron tubes?
If you’ve ridden bicycles before, you’ll probably want to ask if you can patch your e-moto tire? The simple answer is yes, but it’s not as simple as that. The first question to ask yourself is, do you want it to be an emergency fix to get you home or a long-term fix?
Unless you’re carrying tire levers, a patch kit, and an air compressor, it’s probably just easier to have spare tubes, or even better, complete wheel sets if you’re at the track. Or a good friend with a trailer or pickup! Patching a tube is possible, but is it really easier? For the few dollars a new inner tube costs, I’d be getting a new tube and replacing it. Why? Part safety, part laziness.
When you patch a tube, the weight of the wheel is compromised, the integrity of the rubber is unknown, and the workmanship is unknown (i.e. did it work effectively?) For these reasons, tire manufacturers don’t consider patching the tubes safe. Dunlop quotes “the repaired tire should never be used over 75 mph.” And let’s face it, to correctly patch a tube, to wait until it’s dry, check and recheck pressures, is a pain! If you’ve gone to the effort to take the tire off the rim, just replace the tube and don’t worry about it again!
More about inner tubes
When you replace your inner tube, there are a few options to use. These are the main types:
Like for Like: The standard inner tube, perfect for all types of riding. The easiest to fit, usually one of the cheapest options, it’s simple to keep a few handy in your toolbox or gear bag.
Moose tubes: These are puncture proof – they emulate a particular tire pressure and prevent deflation. The example below is a 13psi moose tube. Very handy if you want peace of mind when you’re away from home, or when you’re competing in an enduro event. The downside is they are slightly heavier than standard tubes, and I would highly recommend getting them professionally fitted as they’re almost impossible to fit without the professional equipment.
How do I change my Surron Tires:
Before you attempt to change your tires, you’ll need a few basic tools. Changing tires takes both the right tools, and a little bit of know-how and technique. Whenever you’re attempting to change the tire, work slowly and carefully so you don’t damage the rim or slip and hurt yourself. Watch the video to see the right technique when it comes to levering the tire on and off, and remember to keep pressure on the tire levers or they can come out at a fast rate.
Tools:
- 17mm wrench or even better, this Multi purpose tool that changes the wheel, and many more Surron specific things!
- Tire spoons
Removing the wheel:
Before removing either wheel from your Surron, ensure it is on a solid stand. It is generally easier to do one wheel at a time. The following instructions are a guide only.
Front wheel:
- Loosen the axle pinch bolts.
- Remove the axle bolt while holding the wheel, and carefully slide the wheel from the brake caliper. Don’t pull in the brake lever, or you’ll have trouble returning the wheel as the brake calipers will close.
Rear wheel:
Removing the rear wheel is similar to the front, only + a few more steps are involved. Again, make sure your Surron is on a sturdy stand.
- Loosen the axle nut
- Remove the axle, while holding the wheel
- Move the wheel towards the drive sprocket to loosen the chain
- Remove the chain from the rear sprocket, allowing the wheel to come free.
- Once the wheel is removed, don’t touch the brake lever.
To change the tire:
Once the wheel has been removed from your Surron, it is the same process to change both the front and rear tire. However, for the rear tire, make sure you put the wheel on a flat surface with the disc facing upwards. This ensures the disc won’t get damaged.
- Release the air pressure from the tire
- Loosen rim lock (if applicable)
- Break the bead by using the tire lever or applying firm pressure to the tire.
- Use tire spoons/levers to lever the tire off one side of the rim. Use two tire levers and slowly pry sections of the carcass from the rim. Be careful not to scratch the rim.
- Remove tube valve retainer nut, then remove the tube. If only replacing the tube, not the tire, skip to step number 13.
- Lever the other side of the tire to fully remove the tire carcass from the rim.
- Replace with the new tire, and lever one side of the new tire onto the rim. Ensure you have your tire in the correct direction if it’s a directional tire.
- Twist the tire on the rim so that the tire valve indicator lines up with the tire valve.
- Make sure that your rim lock is on the inside of the tire, so the tire is between the rim and the rim lock.
- Before putting the tube in, put a little bit of air in it so it is inflated slightly. This makes it easier for sliding the tube into the right spot. It will also help to reduce the possibility of pinching the tube.
- For the valve stem, start by putting the valve through the valve hole, then replace the value nut loosely.
- Feed the tube in between the rim and the tire.
- Lever the second side of the carcass onto the tire. Start where the rim lock is, leave the rim lock loose.
- Start to lever the tire onto the rim, being careful not to pinch the tube. Use a similar motion to when you were taking the tire off the rim, using two tire levers, but levering on the outside of the tire.
- Keep levering the tire around the rim. If it is hard to get the tire onto the rim, you can use soap to help it slide over the rim.
- Start pressurizing the tire up, and put in more pressure than needed to help seat the tire bead onto the rim. Once the bead has ‘popped’ onto the rim, lower the pressure to your desired riding pressure.
- Tighten up the rim lock. Don’t overtighten or you might bend your rim!
- Put the wheel back onto your Surron.
Don’t worry if that all sounds like a lot! It becomes second nature once you do it a few times, but your local shop would be happy to do it for you, for not a lot of time and labor.
Replacing the wheel:
Front wheel:
1. Carefully line up the brake disk into the brake caliper and slide through the axle.
2. Replace the axle nut and tighten it.
3. Pump your brakes until the brakes work.
4. Test ride
Rear wheel:
1. Place the wheel into the swing arm, and put the chain over the sprocket.
2. Carefully line up the brake disk into the brake caliper, then pull the wheel rearwards into position to allow the axle to slide through.
3. Replace the axle nut and tighten it.
4. Pump your brakes until the brakes work.
5. Test ride
Can I get someone else to change my Surron tire?
Yes! If you don’t like the idea of changing the tire yourself, are not too sure what to do, or don’t have the time, contact your local e-moto store, or most tire companies will be able to fit your tires. If you’re not sure, it’s always best to ask.
Keep in mind: The tire changing machines at big automotive chains like Big O Tires and Walmart often can’t accept wheels as small as the ones on a Surron LBX and other small e-motos. Call up a motorcycle dealer or independent shop and they’ll take care of you!
Changing a Surron Tire: What to Know
To recap some of the important points:
- Tire tread is made for certain types of terrain. Know where you want to ride and choose the best-suited tire for that environment.
- Replace the tubes whenever changing the tires. Patch only if you must, then change the tube as soon as possible after.
- Tire changes are needed for many reasons, not just the obvious flat. Even age alone can make a tire harder and thus unresponsive to terrain.
- Get yourself the right tools to change the tire, work slowly, and remember the safety points from the video.
- If you’re not sure or don’t have time, contact your local e-moto store or tire company to get your tires professionally changed.
Once you have a good set of wheels on your Surron LBX and find the right pressure for the terrain, your e-moto will have the best handling you’ve experienced on your bike. I’ve never once heard anyone saying they changed their tires too soon. The pros change them every race. My bike deserves at least every season 😉
The entire staff at GritShift agrees that putting a good wheelset (good tires + tubes + wheels) is one of the most significant changes you can make for the better. Check out our selection of wheels, tires, and tubes for the Surron LBX using the link below. Happy riding!
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